Misc Custom Connections / Projects

(***)
Misc Custom Connections / Projects - Listing: Page Bottom

Note: Please remember that each of the images seen here have been made with the specific options wanted by the photog. Use these images only as a guide. Your mod will be made just as you wish, nothing more. If you have questions, please ask!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


(***) AF Assist Unit - External
(***)Why Do You Want This?
The External AF Unit is another specialized, customized unit that will "relay" the AF signal from a flash unit where the AF Assist light is being blocked by a ring flash attachment of other device (see below), and project it out from the front window of this unit with the same grid lines as the original. Click on any of the images below for the enlarged details, but this version is housed in a box only 3.5 x 2.5 x 1 (inches), and is powered either by an internal 9 volt battery, or by an external power supply through the included Aux Power input jack. The back of the unit has an Internal Sensor, or the External Sensor can be plugged into the mini jack just above the Aux Power input jack. The unit has both a manual Test button, as well as a Manual Tripper that can plug in just above the External Sensor jack.

On the other side face (image above which you can call the left or the right face, depending on which way you are holding the unit) are the other controls, obviously the ON-OFF switch and indicator LED, the Test button (which is disabled when the external manual tripper is plugged in), the Sensor adjustment, and the sensor indicator LED, the DIP Switch controls, and the AF Assist Indicator LEDs. The 3 AF Assist Indicator LEDs blink when the corresponding front panel AF Assist LEDs blink, to give a visual indication of firing. DIP Switches 1, 2, and 3 control each of the 3 AF Assist LEDs, so that any conbination of the 3 LEDs can be lit up. DIP Switch # 4 turns off the AF Assist Indicator LEDs as a way of blanking the side display (but doesn't blank the main AF Assist LEDs on the front panel). DIP Switch # 5 is to blank the Sensor Adjustment LED, and DIP Switch # 6 is to blank the Power Indicator LED. Blanking the side display LEDs will save a little bit of battery power, and prevent all the blinking LEDs from possibly being a distraction to others when shooting in a dark room.

The Bottom Line:
Custom items of this complexity sometimes require a rather long lead time for analysis, design, and prototyping, and will often start in the $400 to $500 price range. Please remember that these are not mass produced items, but are hand designed and built to achieve a specific purpose based on your needs and desires.

Using a larger enclosure, eliminating the DIP switches, Test button, and having only a single External Sensor would make for a simpler version that is both easier to construct, and would cost less overall.


(***)External AF Assist Unit - Why Do You Want This?
If the AF Assist light from your flash unit is being blocked by a ring flash attachment or other device (see below), this External AF Assist Unit can be placed in front of the the ring attachment, and the



external sensor is then taped to the front of the flash unit AF Assist light. When the AF Assist light from the flash unit fires, the sensor triggers the External AF Assist Unit to also fire, and emit the light from either the 1, 2, or 3 AF Assist lights.




(***) 3 Stage Custom Timer
This 3 Stage Custom Timer again shows just some things that are possible, and only limited by your imagination. This adjustable timer was specifically made to fire two cameras with the second camera delayed from the first by a set amount. For this specific project, 2 cameras are being used, each in burst mode. Each camera will take images in a 1 second burst, with the second camera being started just before the first camera has finished shooting. The DELAY period, as well as the time ON of each camera is adjustable as needed. The timer unit can be triggered by pressing the red momentary push button, or by using an external trigger, such as the Manual Tripper shown, or even via a radio set such as the Pocket Wizard. The three LEDs along the top of the unit indicate the ON time of the first camera, the DELAY before the second camera starts, and the ON time of the second camera. For this project, the time adjustments are made using a small screwdriver from within the battery compartment as a way to keep the clutter on the operating panel to a minimum. The adjustment POTS could have been made to be visible alongside the corresponding LED, but that was specifically not requested. This same setup can be extended to just about any time period, short or long, and with any number of camera outputs, and delay sequences, all depending on the specifications required. A truly digital version, where the timer starting values can be set on a numeric display for each timer section is also in the works. Being strictly a custom designed unit, this type of trigger as shown would start at around $450, depending on the features desired.

Update: The customer photog was able to adjust the overlap between the 2 cameras quite easily to indeed get the minimal frame overlap as desired. A slight overlap is needed to aid in syncing the two camera burst sequences.



(***) 3 Stage Custom Timer - Advanced
This Adjustable 3 Stage Timer is based on the same design as the version above, with some very useful additions, and like most everything else here, was designed with input from the purchaser. The timer adjustments can be seen recessed through the small holes just below the corresponding indicator LEDs (click on the image to enlarge in a separate window), and the upper black colored switches are for manual control of each camera output jack, or the combined cable RJ45 jack. The small black rocker switch controls the pre-trigger action when in manual mode, and is automatically engaged when in the auto mode. In addition, in auto mode, the manual pushbuttons are disengaged to avoid inadvertant firing in the manual mode. The underside of the Timer Box has an easy to access battery compartment, and a threaded insert for mounting the unit as an alternative to the flexible lanyard. The RJ45 combined output jack will allow a single ethernet cable of any length to connect to a Splitter Box (below), which then has outputs to the 2 cameras. This way the Timer Box can be mounted either at the camera location, or at a distance away from the cameras, and still operated in either the auto or manual modes. The setup here also includes a Manual Trigger Box, which has none of the timer auto electronics, and is meant to be used either as an additional Splitter Box, or in case the Timer Box has to go in for upgrades and servicing, or just as a smart backup (like in case the Timer Box gets stepped on and crushed by your helpful assistant). The mini jack on the side of the unit allows connection from a Manual Tripper, Foot Switch, or the connection to a radio receiver set for truly remote operaions.

If you are interested in this item, or something similar to fit a particular need or desire you have, send an e-mail with some info and together we can figure it out!



New Projects in the Works:
1) Flash Verification Annunciator - When you have multiple flash units being wirelessly triggered, and some are out of sight, some are in softboxes, etc, it is often times hard to make sure they all fired. This unit has a small wired sensor placed in front of the flash unit, and will sound a tone, or blink a sereis of LEDs to indicate that the unit has fired. All aspects of the blink and tone are adjustable to each specific annunciator unit will look and sound unique from the next unit. The annunciator unit also has output jacks for the internal relay, and an external speaker.

2) Flash Cycler for rapid sequencing of multiple flash units, either in manual firing mode, or triggered by a burst mode from the camera (coming soon).



(***) FreeXwire FW9T Input / Output Mod
The FreeXwire FW9T Transmitter can be set to locally fire an attached flash unit, just like the FreeXwire FW8R Receiver. Both the FW9T and the FW8R will fire a flash that is attached through the PC jack, but only the FW8R Receiver will fire the flash through the mini plug located on the right side...unless you have the FW9T Input/Output Mod done. Now the mini jack on the FW9T Transmitter, which is factory marked as "Sync In", will now behave as "Sync In /Sync Out", and a flash can be fired by connecting to either the PC jack , or the mini jack of the FW9T Transmitter unit. This fee for this mod is $55, and like most of my mods, will usually take just a day, will naturally void your warranty, and will obviously need to be sent to me for the mod to be done. (Other than all that, it works great, and lets you not have to rely on the PC jack for a connection.)



(***) RadioPopper Dual Fiber Optic Bundle Mod
If you shoot with a Dual Flash Setup of any kind, and are also using the RadioPoppers P1 series, the Dual Fiber Optic Bundle Mod is something you will need. Each separate bundle will get about 90% of the signal light, and will fit into the access port of the case without modification (Countersink is suggested), so the there should be no problem sending the optic signal to the 2 flash units. This Dual Fiber Optic Bundle Mod is $40 plus the cost of 2 single fiber optic bundles drop shipped to me directly from RadioPopper (my full address is on the title page, above). I have access to this same 3 mm fiber optic cable, so cables longer than the standard 7 inches are available, although the clear vinyl reflector end must still be secured from RadioPopper directly.



(***) RadioPopper Countersink of Access Port - DIY
To make it easier to insert the Fiber Optic Bundles, original or Dual Bundle (above), you should countersink the opening of the plastic case, SLIGHTLY. This is done by GENTLY rotating (by hand) a drill bit or countersink in the access port of the case to remove the sharp edge of the plastic case. This countersink area will resemble a funnel, and will not only make it easier to insert the fiber optic bundle through the case into the internal guide tube, but will prevent causing a knick in the outer jacket of the bundle, and will also prevent stress points on the bundle when bent upon exiting the access port.



(***) RadioPopper Dual Pickup Coil
The Dual Pickup Coil Mod for the RadioPopper Transmitter puts an additional pickup coil inside the plastic case at the bottom front corner, in the location indicated by the white label in the image. The little slide switch is used to control which Pickup Coil is active. This will allow different mounting positions of the RadioPopper, such as on the narrow edge, sitting next to a PW, and both units sitting on a ST-E2 control unit, as can be seen just below (image coming soon). The price for this mod is $80, and like most of my other mods, this will take just a day or so, but will naturally void the manufacturers warranty for this item.


(***) RadioPopper Extension Pickup Coil Mod
Sometimes the RadioPopper Pickup Coil is just not in the best place when you are trying to mount the unit, so the Extension Pickup Coil Mod will allow placemnt of the Pickup Coil pretty much anywhere you wish at the end of the 6 inch cable. The coil and connections are encased in an epoxy shell for protection, and the cable stores back in the case through the slot near the original position of the coil (see enlarged inset image here). The price for this mod is $80, and like most of my other mods, this will take just a day or so, but will naturally void the manufacturers warranty for this item.


(***) Custom Combo Unit
The Combo Unit consists of 3 modified units: the ST-E2 (Aux Sync Jack, Metal Foot), RadioPopper (Dual Pickup Coil, Extension Pickup Coil), and a Pocket Wizard (PW Removable Antenna Mod), all attached to make it as one self contained secure unit. This setup was done by brainstorming with a photog based on his shooting style needing many options in a very secure, small package. Suggested in the image text, and done before delivery, was to remove the foot of the Pocket Wizard, and close the opening to make an even smaller profile, since it was determined that the Combo Unit would likely remain as a dedicated unit, and only need to be taken apart to change the batteries.



(***) iPhone Breakout Cable
The iPhone Breakout Cable is a Custom Headset Pass Through Cable, with a "Breakout Jack" which allows access to the speaker and microphone audio when using a headset with the iPhone. This is NOT a conventional "2 way splitter cable" (which is shown in the next image below). The "Breakout Jack" can be connected to a 2 channel (stereo) recorder to record both the send and receive sides of the iPhone conversation, OR an audio source can be input through this "Breakout Jack" to broadcast over the iPhone instead of speaking into the microphone. Since even this iPhone Breakout Cable needs a special 4 conductor mini plug with an exceptionally skinny neck to fit into the designed recess at the top of the iPhone, this has added to the cost of securing this one part. This iPhone Breakout Cable has been reduced in price to $80 as shown in the first image, or $95 in the second image that includes the Y Splitter (4 ended cable), although any number of custom setups are available, and as most things on this site, are only limited by your imagination. Custom and stock cables are available to connect the "Breakout Jack" to the specific inputs of your recorder, just ask!

Update:
This IPhone Breakout Cable will work with the Blackberry devices also.

Connections:
Since the unamplified mic audio signal is about 10 times weaker than the headset audio, the Breakout Cable must be plugged into the MIC input or your recorder. If you connect the Breakout Cable to a LINE IN port of the recorder you will hear the proper level of the headset audio, but the mic audio will be muted. Smaller recorders will have an Auto Gain Control (AGC) so the headset audio will not overpower the MIC input, while bigger recorders will have adjustable levels for each channel input.

2 Channel vs 1 Channel Recording:
Remember, that this device is specifically made to output the headset audio on one channel, and the mic audio on a second channel for 2 channel recording (with music recording, this is commonly called stereo recording). With each part of the conversation on a different channel, or track, specific file manipulation is possible.

Two channel recording is useful to isolate either the headset audio, or the mic audio, as a single channel recording of a duplex conversation will allow one voice to be recorded over another voice (as when both parties are talking at the same time). This is like shooting an image in "RAW" as opposed to "JPEG".

Two Channel recording will use up twice as much tape or memory than one channel recording, and thus one channel recording can be 2 times as long for a given storage medium.

2 Channel Combination Pre-Recording:
If you are wanting to combine the mic audio and headset audio prior to recording, so that the entire conversation can be recorded onto a single channel as one, then you will need to run both channels through an electronic combiner first, like this Cell Phone Recording Combiner, which is made for non-iPhone cell phones, or the Cell Phone Recording Combiner - iPhone Version. The mic input volume can be adjusted (attenuated) by using the Cell Phone Microphone Volume Control, which can be made as a stand alone unit, or incorporated into a combined custom mixer unit.

2 Channel Combination Post-Recording:
If you want to combine the mic audio and headset audio post recording, as if to moniter the recording through a single earphone, or to output the recording to another device for upload, you need to use a stereo to mono adapter cable plugged into the output of your recorder. This item can be made to your specs depending on what you are trying to connect.

Legal Notice:
This recording device can only be used where legally allowed and with proper notification of the parties involved.


(***) 4 Conductor Y Splitter / Conversion Cable
This image shows a 4 conductor Y Splitter which is $40, and a Custom Conversion Cable for $50 that would plug into one leg of the Y splitter to make this setup into a breakout jack with headset pass through. These 2 items are only sold as a set. Again, specific connection cables to suit your needs based on your specific recorder, are only limited by your imagination! (This device can only be used where legally allowed and with proper notification of the parties involved.)




(***) Cell Phone Recording (non iPhone)
The Cell Phone Recording Combiner (non-iPhone) will allow the recording of both sides of a cell phone conversation and combine the mic audio and the headset audio into a single channel for use in many analog and digital recording devices. This version is has a 2.5mm input jack for your standard 2.5mm cell phone headset (non-iPhone), and a 3.5mm output (6 inches) to connect into a recording device, and a 2.5mm output (6 inches) to connect into your cell phone as the headset pass though connection. The introductory pricing of this item is $95 as shown (headset available, but not included).


(***) Cell Phone Recording - Long Leads
This image shows the same Standard version with the longer output cables. Any of the output or input cables of this version can be made up to 66 inches long for just an additional $10.

See also the iPhone, and the Blackberry versions of the combiner.

The electronics in all the versions are set for a fixed volume level ratio between the mic audio and the headset audio, although an option is to add a Custom Balance Control. Another option is for Two Channel Recording; the ability to either record the mic audio and the headset audio onto 2 separate channels or to record onto a single channel. Two channel recording is useful to isolate either the headset audio, or the mic audio, as a single channel recording of a duplex conversation will allow one voice to be recorded over another voice (as when both parties are talking at the same time). (advanced version images coming soon).

(***) Cell Phone Recording Combiner (iPhone)
Recording from the iPhone: The iPhone Breakout Cable is needed in addition to this special version of the Cell Phone Recording Combiner - iPhone Version and will allow the recording of both sides of a cell phone conversation and combine the mic audio and the headset audio into a single channel for use in many analog and digital recording devices. This version is has a 3.5mm input jack for connection to the iPhone Breakout Cable, and a 3.5mm output (6 inches) to connect into a recording device for one channel recording. This item is also introductory priced at $95. The electronics in this version are set for a fixed volume level between the mic audio and the headset audio, although an option is to add a Custom Balance Control. The output cable lengths can be made up to 66 inches long for just an additional $10.

See also the Standard Cell, and the Blackberry versions of the combiner.

(***) Cell Phone Recording - Long Leads - Blackberry
This image shows a setup of the Recording Combiner Box - Blackberry version. As you can see the input jack is not mounted into the box as the models above, but instead is mounted to a length of cable, based on the specific customers needs. This will allow the recorder and cell phone to be put off to the side, and the headset then connects directly to this input via the single cable. These Blackberry versions use a more difficult to find 4 conductor input and output, and as pictured, is $155. An extra INPUT cable can be added for $50 to allow a second headset to become part of the conversation, and an extra OUTPUT cable can be added for $40 if 2 channel recording is desired on certain occasions. Why would you want 2 channel recording, as opposed to one channel recording? It is discussed in greater detail in the section above for the iPhone Breakout Cable, but with duplex communications, both parties can talk at the same time, and listening to the recording, it would be easy to not understand what is being said. If the mic audio is recorded separately from the headset audio, it becomes a simple matter to listen to one side of the conversation, or the other, without the overtalk.

See also the iPhone, and the Standard Cell versions of the combiner.

Legal Notice:
These recording devices can only be used where legally allowed and with proper notification of the parties involved.




(***) Cell Phone Microphone Volume Control
If you are using your wired headset to record or transmit from a very loud environment, you might need this Cell Phone Microphone Volume Control. This is a passive device (no batteries), and this version will plug into a standard cell phone (2.5mm plug/jack), and allow the wired headset to plug into this device. The microphone input volume can then be dialed down (attenuated), so that the other party, or recorded track will not sound distorted from the volume being too loud. This standard cell phone version is $80, and versions for the iPhone and Blackberry are $95. (The iPhone and Blackberry versions use a straight 4 conductor mini plug, and a 4 conductor mini jack.) Each of these Microphone Volume Controls, can also be added into the Recording Combiners above, although a slightly larger control box will be needed.

Custom miniature mixers, both passive and active, can also be made directly to your specifications, as a way of modifying pre-recorded inputs. The hardest part is to define the problem...



(***) Custom Adapter - Mount Slave to Trigger PW
Here is the Custom Adapter for Mounting an Optical Slave Trigger to a PW (see inset). The PW shown is attached to the flash head using a simple bracket called the PW Caddy ($16 each) which eliminates the need for Velcro, elastics, or tape. Plugged into the input of the PW is the Custom Adapter which puts the Sonia Optical Slave Trigger in view of the flash unit. When the flash fires (manual Mode), the optical slave unit will trigger the PW to transmit a signal. The
Custom Adapter is $40, and the Sonia Optical Trigger is $20. This is especially helpful in that no cord is needed to connect the PW to the flash or camera in order to transmit a signal to remote off camera flash units being fired by PW receivers. The transmit signal works even if any of the translucent diffusers are placed over the end of the flash unit.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Remember that the flash that is setting off the optical slave must not fire a pre-flash, which is why manual mode is often needed. If you want this same setup, but want to use this flash in eTTL mode, then the PW must be triggered by either connecting to the camera PC port, or through the Aux Sync Jack of the flash unit.

A new unit in the works is a Pre-Flash Ignore Trigger, which will only fire the radio transmitter when the main flash fires, and not on any of the pre-flash activities.

(***) Short RA-RA Sync Cord
The images below (click to enlarge in a new window) show how a shortened RA-RA sync cord (10.5 inches seems to be best) is used to neatly connect a PW (mounted on a PW Caddy) to a flash unit that has the Aux Sync Jack added. The cord allows full rotation of the flash head, but is not so long that it gets in the way. This sync cord is $20 by itself, or just $5 when the Aux Sync Jack Mod is done on your flash unit. The PW Caddy is available for $16 each.




(***) Special Cables for Canon EX Trigger
This image shows the different Sonia Optical Trigger Connection Options for use with the Canon EX Flash Units. Who said the Canon EX flash units (580 EX, 550 EX, 430 EX) don't work with the Sonia Optical Slave Trigger (sold here for $20)? I have added the electronics into several devices (hot shoe, connectors, etc) for easy to use, repeatable results (without having to unplug the unit after every flash). The standard Kaiser Hot Shoe (similar to #3) and also seen throughout the Hot Shoe Section of my site, can have the electronics added for $45, in addition to the cost of the specific hot shoe and options chosen. Each of the other cables and adapters shown here are just $40. Items #1 and #2 have an inline mini jack to connect directly to the standard hot shoe to mini plug adapter, and thus provide the Optical Trigger Connection and allow mounting of the Sonia Optical Trigger, either to be attached to the top of the flash unit with Velcro, tape, or elastic. In the images below, the image on the left shows the Special Mini Plug to PC Jack Cable attached to the standard Hot Shoe to Mini Plug Adapter (item #1 in Connection Options, above - click to open image in a new window), while the right image shows the Special RA Sub-Mini Plug to PC Plug Cable (item #5 in Connection Options, above), connected directly into the Aux Sync Jack of the 580 EX unit.

Items #4 (a,b,c) (Connection Options, above) are different configurations of a rigid attachment shown in the sub-mini plug format (mini plug available upon request). The Inline version (#4a) is shown is the image here, and they all can be swiveled from front to back to better "see" the incoming flash. Each of these adapters will connect directly into the Aux Sync Jack Mod I do for all the Canon EX (and other) flash units. Item #5 ends in a sub-mini plug like item #4 to fit the Aux Sync Jack, while item #6 ends in a mini plug to fit those added sync ports where the mini jack has been used. When the Optical Trigger is on a corded device like items #1, #5, or # 6, it is usually easier to keep it in the "view" of the incoming flash, while the adapter #4 is more compact, but less flexible in the placement.



(***) Special Sync for Optical Trigger of Canon EX
Here is a newer version of item # 4b where the offset is only 0.75 inches. This can also be made as in item # 4c, with both plugs on the same side, and the cost is still $35 just like all the other Special Sync Cables.









(***) Special Sync Cable - PC Jack-PC Plug
Here is the Special PC Jack to PC Plug Cable, which is $45, and is actually a short PC extension cable with the built-in electronics to make the Sonia Optical Trigger ($20) work (repeatedly) with the EX Flash units. The PC jack will connect to the PC plug at the end of a standard Hot Shoe Adapter (item C and H) and available at just about any camera shop or online.






(***) Special Sync Cable - PC Plug-PC Plug
The Special Sync Cable (PC Plug to PC Plug) is similar to the Special PC Jack to PC Plug Cable (above), except that instead of being an extension cable, it has a PC plug on each end. This cable is also $45. This PC plug can connect to one of the flash mounting adapters that have a PC jack as in item F) here, and in this image.


Note: The Sonia Optical Trigger along with one of these Special Cables will fire the Canon EX flash repeatedly when in eTTL mode with the flash in the wireless settings of OFF, MASTER (580EX, 550EX), or SLAVE, and when the flash is in MANUAL mode, it works with the wireless settings of OFF, and SLAVE.



(***) RA Plug - Nikon D70s, D80
This is a Custom RA Plug for the Nikon D70s and D80 made from the standard straight plug shown on the left. It is $90 including the hand controller ($80 without the controller). The cable can be made to point up or down. Add in a mini-plug / inline mini jack disconnect in the line about 6 inches from the camera plug for $40 additional. The Safety Clip is then included on the short section as a way to secure the cord, prevent pullout, and allow for a quick disconnect. If you supply the controller (MC-DC1, or the MC-36, or even a GadgetInfinity wireless remote), deduct $10 for a total of $120.

(***) RA (UP) Plug - Nikon D70s, D80
This Custom RA (UP) Plug (see inset picture) for the Nikon D70s and D80 is also made from the standard straight plug and is $80 for the plug mod itself, and then $40 for the mini jack / mini plug disconnect. The wire here will point upwards, and the Safety Clip is also included as a way to secure the cord, prevent pullout, and allow for a quick disconnect. (The Gadget Infinity wireless remote is not included.)





(***) RA (UP) Plug (Snug Fit) - Nikon D70s, D80
The Custom RA (UP) Snug Fit Plug is shorter and fits closer into the D80 socket than the connector shown above. Like the other re-molded plugs, it is $80 for the plug mod itself, and then an additional $40 for the disconnect, and $10 for the hand controller.





(***) RA (Forward) Plug - Nikon D70s, D80
This Custom RA Plug (Forward) for the Nikon D80 points towards the front of the lens and was made to get the smallest size possible starting with a standard D80 connector. It is just under 19 mm from the tip of the metal connector to the back edge of the molding. As in the other versions of this mod above, it is $80 for the plug mod itself, and an additional $10 to include the generic hand controller. The mini jack / mini plug disconnect can be added for $40.


(***) RA (Forward) Plug - Nikon D90
The Nikon D90 uses a different plug than the Nikon D80, and here is the plug from the MC-DC2 Remote made into a Custom RA Plug (Forward). Currently this re-molding mod is $80, but since no generic remote is yet available, and the MC-DC2 Remote needed for the starting point is $45, the total for this mod is $125.




(***) Custom Nikon 10 Pin Re-Mold
Here is another of the custom re-moldings: the Nikon 10 Pin Re-Molded Plug. Comparing the OEM vs the Re-Molded plug, you can see they are just about the same size, but the Re-Molding allows the strain relief and the cable to fit closer to the camera body without sticking out to the side. There is not as much finger room next to the camera body as in the OEM version, so tightening the locking ring is a bit more difficult. The same Re-Molding can be done with the generic friction fit 10 pin plugs, and these have no locking ring to tighten. The Re-Molding mod is $80, not including the 10 pin plug. This OEM plug is usually $45, but if the Re-Mold Mod is done, the OEM 10 pin plug (on a length of cable up to 24 inches) would be $35, for a total of $115.


(***) Aux Collar for Nikon 10 Pin Plug
This Aux Collar for the Nikon 10 pin plug is a custom, press fit, 0.75 inch diameter, knurled plastic collar which makes it easier to turn the metal collar, especially in tight spaces, when wearing gloves, or for extra large fingers. The image left shows the Aux Collar on a Nikon 10 pin plug in a D300, showing the clearance to the lens release button, and the PC jack. As each collar is custom made and fit, the specific cable does need to be sent to me, or this item can be fit to a new plug end on a new device. This Aux Collar is currently $20 each. This same item is also made for the ScrewLock PC plug and can be seen here.


(***) Re-Molded FireWire Plug (UP)
Here is a Re-Molded FireWire Plug (RA UP facing) to make the cable fit closer to the body of cameras like the Canon 1Ds. The Re-Molding is $80 plus the cost of the cable, which is usually about $30.
A closeup of the new re-molded plug can be seen in this image.
The direction of the Re-Molding can be customized to suit your specific camera (send me an image of the FireWire jack on the side of the device for true confirmation of the clearances).
This FireWire Port Extension has the cable exit at a slight forward facing angle (for the Canon 1D series, and others) so it will not obstruct any other ports on the side of the camera. It has a low profile and doesn't stick out very much from the camera body, especially useful when shooting tethered to a computer. A Safety Clip is included to attach to the camera strap mounting ring, and the close fitting overmold has enough bulk, but is still a small enough profile to make it easy to grip, but hard to knock out of place. This is truly a custom mod, and you can actually specify which direction and angle you would like the cable to exit from the housing. This Custom FireWire Port Extension Cable is $90 and seems to work best at about 12 inches long (even though the image shows a shorter cable), with the cable exiting in any direction. A FireWire Cable connected to the free end of this Port Extension will provide an axially aligned disconnect that will minimize the stress and strain on the FireWire port of the camera. Scroll down just past the Mini-USB Port Extension to see available FireWire cables in 10, 15, and 25 foot lengths.


(***) Mini-USB Port Extension
This Mini-USB Port Extension has a low profile RA molding so it doesn't stick out very far from the camera body. This is especially good for shooting while tethered to a computer. For the Canon 5D (image below), XT series, and other models where the mini-USB port is oriented vertically with the longer side towards the front of the camera, this angled exit of the cable will point downwards and just slightly backwards to bypass other camera ports and stay clear of the photogs face. The 12 inch cable length has a Safety Clip for attachment to the camera strap mounting ring as can be seen in this image as the cable is connected to a Canon 5D camera. Connect an Extension Cable to the free end to provide an axially aligned disconnect that will minimize the stress and strain on the camera mini-USB port. This Custom Mini-USB Port Extension Cable is $90, and can be made as shown, or with the cable exit facing UPWARDS and FORWARDS as in the shorter version below, or any other direction you wish.

(***) Mini-USB Port Extension - Canon XT
This same Mini-USB Port Extension Cable is shown (click to enlarge) on a Canon XT (350D) camera. Again, the Down Angle remains clear of the face when attached during tethered shooting. Since there are no other ports lower than the mini-USB port, the offset bend is not as necessary as it is for a camera like the Canon 5D.


(***) Mini-USB Port Extension (UP/Forward)
This Mini-USB Port Extension also has a low profile RA molding, but the cable exit is UPWARDS and FORWARD. The short (approximately 6 inch) cable length has a Safety Clip for attachment to the camera strap mounting ring, but the rubber weather cover does get in the way in this configuration. Connect an Extension Cable to the free end to provide an axially aligned disconnect that will minimize the stress and strain on the camera mini-USB port. This Custom Mini-USB Port Extension Cable is $90, and can be made as shown, or with any other cable exit direction you wish.

Coming next: Mini-USB Port Extension for horizontal oriented port.

(***) USB UltraFlex / FireWire Extension Cables
A USB UltraFlex Extension Cable (M/F) with a covered boot in a length of 10 feet is available here for $25, while the 6 foot version is $20 and a 3 foot version is $15. The FireWire 4 Pin Cable (M/M) is available in a 15 foot cable for $35, a 10 foot cable for $25, a 6 foot cable for $20, a 3 foot cable for $15, and a special 25 foot heavy duty cable (not shown) for $45 as in the 2 images below (click either to enlarge):















(***) Custom Double Hot Shoe
The Custom Double Hot Shoe was first made for a Leica owner where the original placement of the camera hot shoe interfered with a special finder the photog wanted to use. The starting unit is a Voigtlander Double Shoe Adapter that has no electrical contacts, and then gets turned into one or two new hot shoes. As shown with one cold shoe turned hot the mod fee is $110. For the second shoe to also be hot would add $50. The mod can be done on a Voigtlander Double Shoe Adapter that you send me, or have one drop shipped to me from your supplier.

(***) Custom Double hot Shoe (B version)
This Custom Double Hot Shoe is made using the "B" version, and has a Voltage Limiter Module installed on the underside. The starting unit is a Voigtlander Double Shoe Adapter that has no electrical contacts, and then gets turned into one or two new hot shoes. As shown with one cold shoe turned hot the mod fee is $110. For the second shoe to also be hot would add $50. This custom module can be installed almost anywhere, in any space, and will limit the trigger voltage to less than 6 volts. The Voltage Limiter Module is an additional $50 for most projects, or by quote depending on the customization.

Note: This item was originally made in the minimal height shown, the "A" size, and 2 other versions, the "B", and "C" heights. All 3 versions have been discontinued, although there may be some "C" units still available.

Click here for an example where the Voltage Limiter Module has been added into the Replacement Foot Assembly for the high trigger voltage Vivitar 283 flash unit. The possibilities are almost endless!



(***) Low Profile Hot Shoe Pickup
The Low Profile Hot Shoe Pickup shown here, ending in a sub-mini (or a mini plug) and is $95. It was first made for some Leica owners to provide an off camera flash connection in a limited height format. Mini or sub-mini extensions are also available to extend the reach in lengths up to 100 feet. The Kaiser Hot Shoe can have a sub-mini Aux Sync Jack added, and supplied with a standard sync cord or connection to any other device. The Hot Shoe with the sub-mini aux sync jack and a standard sync cord 16 inches, RA sub-mini plug to a straight mini plug is also $95.


(***) Mini-DIN Inline Jack on OCC
To attach a mini-DIN inline jack (or a plug, as in the next 2 images) to a cut coiled cord is $95. It is an extra $20 to have both connectors assembled onto the coiled cable. To then add the short mating mini-DIN connector to the other end of the OCC would be $35. This and all OCC mods can be done on your cord, or one I supply. While the OCC-2 is still available, it is $60, while the OCC-3 (actually called the OC-E3) would be $85. Mini-DIN extensions can then be used to extend the length as desired. Prices for the extensions can be seen in the Sync Cord post. This OEM short Canon coiled cord can also be lengthened by removing the coiled cable entirely and using a fixed length straight cable ($60 + $2/ft cable cost), a pair of molded mini-DIN connectors ($80) and mini-DIN extensions, or a new soft
rubber coiled cable that stretches 6 to 8 feet ($60 + $40 cable cost). More information and pictures can be seen in the sections on Off Camera Cords.



(***) PW Connection to any OCC
Any Off Camera Cord (supplied by you or me, see above) can be modified to have a hardwired cable ending in a straight mini plug as shown for $60. Most other connector ends are also available (see the section on Plugs/Jacks, etc), usually for just $5 additional. In addition, the connector can be a hardwired Hot Shoe Adapter for $75. The usual length for the straight mini plug would be about 10 inches (using the Pocket Wizard), and for right angle plugs the length can usually be shorter, although any length is available.

(***) Custom Wired PW Connection to OCC
Here is an example of a Customized Application of an OCC where the molded inline mini jack is hardwired to come out of the front of the OCC, parallel to the coiled cable, and is threaded through the coil itself. The customer supplied 3 prong HH to PC plug sync cord was then modified to the proper length, and mini plug connector was added. These modifications total $80 and do not include either the Off Camera Cord or the HH cord.


(***) Conversion of Strobe to Canon Use
For whatever reason you are no longer using your Sea&Sea YS-90DX Underwater Strobe actually in the water, convert it for use on land in either TTL or Manual mode by attaching the camera end of the OC-E3 Off Camera Cord, in place of the existing waterproof connector. The mod as shown is $130 (including the camera end of the OC-E3). A mini-DIN connector set can also be placed to allow the camera module to disconnect from the cord, and supply the other end of the OC-E3, for an additional $130. A non-dedicated hot shoe can be placed atop the camera module for a radio transmitter attachment for $80. Once the mini-DIN connector set is added, separate adapter sections are available for $50 which will allow the flash to connect directly to a PC jack or a radio receiver, without the camera module getting in the way.



(***) Studio Pack Sync & Mounting - PW
Here are 3 different Studio Pack Mounts for holding the PW above the edge of the Studio Pack, so it doesn't have to be Velcroed in place, or just left hanging by the lanyard. Mount #1 (top) connects to the PW

through the hot shoe contact, while Mount #2 (mid), and Mount #3 (bot) use a short mini plug to connect into the Camera/Flash port of the PW. Each mount is $40 (PW not included).

The biggest problem with Mounts #1 and #2 is that you can break the foot on the PW, while Mount #3 connects to the threaded insert of the PW, so the foot does not take any of the stress. Should you have a problem, a PW foot can be replaced in a day for just $40.

This Studio Pack Mount for PW is similar to the Mount #3, although the slotted holding screw is replaced by a winged thumbknob that is offset to allow access to the battery door, and a RA mini plug is included. This improved model is $45.




(***) Belt Clip Mounting
The PW can also be mounted to the side of a studio pack (or any other flat surface) using the Belt Clip Mounting Stud ($20) and the Aux Mounting Plate ($10). The Belt Clip itself is $25, and the three parts can be purchased together for the discounted price of $45. (Click image to enlarge.)



(***) Custom Power Y Connector - Quantum CZ
This Custom Y Connector (for the Quantum CZ Power Cable) is made from two Quantum cables, a CZ, and a CCZ. The junction location can be specified by the customer, closer to either end. This item is generally $180 for a 2 output Custom Y Connector, but other configs are available by quote. These Custom Y Connectors are perfect for powering dual flash units when used in close proximity as on any of the Dual Flash Brackets like the Dual Flash Bracket - Monopod Version, or the Double Flash Bracket - Under Camera Version, or any of the other dual brackets in that section.



(***) Custom Power Y Connector - Threaded Insert
The same Custom Y Connector shows the addition of a threaded insert in the underside of the cable junction as a way for mounting this cable set onto a bracket to prevent any stress from being transferred through the cables to the individual flash units. The threaded insert adds $25 to the cost of the $180 for the Power Y Cable shown, for a total of $205. The "Power Pass Through" as shown in the next variation of this item, can be added for $80 and will provide an extra power outlet for expansion to a 3rd (or more) flash unit. A slightly taller profile junction box would be needed for that version because of the larger size of the DIN connector. As is usually the case, this item can be customized for different flash units, as well as different lengths of each cable section.



(***) Custom Power Y Connector w/ Pass Thru
This version of the Custom Power Y Connector has a "Power Pass Through" for future expansion which adds $80 to the base price of $180 for a total of $260. The small size of the junction box makes it so it can be attached to the Quantum battery using a Velcro pad. The setup shown here would be best for a light stand holding 2 (or more) flash units being powered by a single Quantum battery. As usual, just about any config is available, you just have to ask!




(***) Controller w/ Coiled Cord and Camera Plugs
Controller w/ coiled cord: $45
First inine jack to camera: $20
Add'l inline jack to camera: $30
Inline jack w/o controller: $40
Sub-mini jack additional: $5
OEM N3, or 10 pin: add $45
Convert your controller (any model) to a coiled cord with the disconnect: $40
The Safety Clip can be added to the short section if desired. M/F extensions are available in various lengths: 6 ft: $5, 12 ft: $8, 25 ft: $15, 50 ft: $25, 100ft: $40.



(***) Submersible Wired Remote
How do you take pictures of the sharks underwater when you don't have (or don't want to be in) a shark cage? Mount your camera in the underwater housing, and then use an Extendable Wired Remote - Submersible Version, which can be extended in 15 foot segments, and connects through the secondary flash bulkhead. This current config connects into a Nikonos bulkhead, but just about any brand can be used. The Wired Remote shown is the MC-30, but again, even a timer controller (Nikon MC-36, Canon TC-80N3, etc), or a radio trigger can be used. The image below shows the actual "bulkhead", or watertight connector that is bolted through the watertight camera housing, and the specific bulkhead plug (above) will screw into. The connector in the right side of the image will then connect the inside of the bulkhead to the camera trigger port, in this case the Nikon 10 pin connector. This type of mod starts at $195 (labor) + parts + S/H.




(***) Pre-Trigger 1 x 6 for Canon XT
Here is a Custom 6 Output Pre-Trigger Cable with the Override Switch for a series of Canon XT cameras. The costs for this item are $125 for the basic unit (one output) and then $30 for each additional output. The 6 output unit shown here for the XT series would be $275. All the outputs are isolated from each other to minimize feedback and interference. Other generic camera connectors (Canon N3, Nikon 10 pin, Nikon D80) are charged at $35 for additional outputs over the first. OEM connectors are $45 each.

This Custom Pre-Trigger, and other custom versions can be seen in the Pre-Trigger Section.



(***) Custom Inverting Trigger
This Custom Inverting Trigger is just another example of projects only limited by your imagination, and my ingenuity. The photog had a Strobotac 1531 high speed strobe device that was in excellent condition, and wanted to use it in stop action photography. The Strobotac 1531 was oringinally made in the 1930's by General Radio Corp, and because of the tube design, it required an inverted signal provided by an external trigger to sync with a camera or any momentary switch closure, like a Pocket Wizard. (The strobe would fire when the push button was released, not when it was pressed.) This Custom Trigger would invert the switch closing signal from the "Test" button, or from the PW, or camera X-sync input, so that the Strobotac would see a switch OPENING when the trigger input was getting a switch CLOSING. An optically isolated quad trigger is in the works as well, so that one switch closing input can trigger up to 4 isolated outputs.

(***) Nikon 10 Pin Y Connector
This Custom Nikon 10 Pin Y Connector will allow both a hand trigger (MC-30) and a GPS device to connect into the single 10 pin jack of a Nikon camera. The cable lengths and exit directions can all be customized to suit your specfic needs. As shown, this Y connector is $225, mainly because of the costs of securing the Nikon 10 pin female connector. It is also possible to hardwire the MC-30 (or any other hand controller, generic or OEM) right into the Y connector and eliminate one of the connections. Since this is strictly a custom item, the tiny junction box could even house a mini jack to allow a plug in of any hand controller as needed.


(***) Sliding Camera Mount
The Sliding Camera Mount can be attached to the camera left side strap loop as in the left image, or to the camera bottom as in the right image. The nylon loop is long enough so the camera can be held

in either portrait or landscape orientation without the feeling of a bulky strap when gripping the camera. The left side mounting works best when the camera is positioned on the photogs left side, while the bottom mounting tends to work best when the camera is positioned on the photogs right side. The edge of the carabiner is about 5 inches from the camera, but can be made longer or shorter upon request. This Sliding Camera Mount is $20 including the carabiner, but should be easy enough for anyone to make as a DIY project. You can even use a longer loop and carabiner attached to one of the other strap loops as a safety tether if you are worried about hanging your camera from a single attachment point.

These mounting connections are often used with a sliding strap, either alone or in a pair. My Dual Sliding Strap Harness will allow easy use of two cameras in a quick draw fashion, without having the strap constantly sliding off your shoulder, or hanging on your neck (or bunching up your shirt). I have been field testing this item in numerous all day weddings, and it is a pleasure to operate with. (Images coming soon)





--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Misc Custom Connections / Projects - Listing

Note: Please remember that each of the images seen here have been made with the specific options wanted by the photog. Use these images only as a guide. Your mod will be made just as you wish, nothing more. If you have questions, please ask! If you have a special project you would like help with or trouble shooting on, send me a note! The initial consulations and discussions are free, so go ahead and ask!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Adapter to Mount Optical Slave Trigger to PW
AF Assist Unit - External, Self-Contained (6-14-09)
Canon EX Flash - Reliable Optical Trigger Connections
Cell Phone Microphone Volume Control
Cell Phone Recording Combiner - Single Channel Std Cell
Cell Phone Recording Combiner - Single Channel - Blackberry
Cell Phone Recording Combiner - Single Channel - iPhone
Conversion of YS-90DX UnderwaterStrobe for TTL Land Use
Custom 3 Stage Timer - Expanded Setup
Custom 3 Stage Timer to Trigger 2 Cameras with Adjustable Timing
Double Hot Shoe from Voigtlander Cold Shoe
Extendable Wired Remote - Submersible Version
Extendable Hand Controller with Coiled Cord
FireWire Port Extension - RA Re-Mold (Tethered Shooting)
FreeXwire FW9T Input/Output Mod
Inverting Custom Trigger
iPhone Breakout Cable - Record Both Sides of a Conversation
Low Profile Hot Shoe Pickup
Mini-USB Port Extension - RA Re-Mold (Tethered Shooting)
Nikon 10 Pin Re-Mold for Closer Fit Mod
Nikon 10 pin Y connector
Off Camera Cord with Assembled mini-DIN Jack
Off Camera Cord with Hardwired Connector
PW Studio Pack Mounts (#1, #2, #3)
Power Cable Y Connector for Quantum CZ
Pre-Trigger Cable - 6 Output XT
RA (DOWN) Plug for & Controller for D70s, D80
RA (UP) Plug & Disconnect for D70s, D80
RA (Forward) Plug D80
RA (Forward) Plug D90
RadioPopper Dual Coil Pickup Mod
RadioPopper Dual Fiber Optic Bundle
RadioPopper Extension Pickup Coil Mod
Sliding Camera Mount Connection (12-3-08)
Voltage Limiter Installed into Double Hot Shoe


********************************************************************************

Purchase Info: Please Read