FAQ - Questions / Answers

FAQ - Questions / Answers - Click on an Image to Enlarge
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I will be starting to go through all the hundreds of e-mails I am getting, and pull out some of the questions and best answers to help clarify some of this stuff.

If you don't see a question or answer that helps, please e-mail me, and I will try to help, and it might just appear here before too long!

I will try to group like questions together, and make some order to the list, as at the moment, there is no search function within the post.
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How Many Modes of Operation for the 580EX II?

Q: How many modes of operation for the 580EX II, and why is the PC jack NOT active in all modes?



How Many PW's to Trigger 2 Canon Flash Units?

Q: How many PW's and how do I set up to trigger 2 off camera Canon EX flash units?



Canon 580 EX Sleep Mode

Q: Why does my 580 turn off after 90 seconds when I use it off camera? I have to turn the power off and then back on for a restart.


Motor Drive / Pre-Trigger Cable Questions

Q: What is the difference between a "Motor-Drive Cable" and a "Pre-Trigger Cable"?

Q: The override switch on the Pre-Trigger Cable is supposed to "break the circuit", correct? When I have the Pre-Trigger Cable plugged in to the Multimax Pocket Wizard and the other end plugged into the camera, I can fire the remote as expected. But When I "roll" the switch button on the MINI override switch, or turn the TOGGLE switch to OFF, the camera still fires. The switch doesn¹t seem to break the circuit. Am I missing something?


Handheld Trigger & Autofocus

Q: When I use the handheld shutter release, the camera doesn't autofocus, but the autofocus on the lens is set to ON?>


Pocket Wizard & Radio Sync Issues

Q: I am using the PW Plus II model, and I can't get the Lens Mounted Trigger, Stick-On Trigger, or the Manual Tripper to fire my remote camera in burst or continuous mode, but only in single shot mode, why?

Q: How do I fire a remote camera using a PW (Pocket Wizard) and still fire off-camera strobes in proper sync?

Q: I have the Bowens Pulsar Transeiver. How can I use it to fire my camera?


Safety Clips / Safety Cables

Q: What is the safety clip?
Q: What are the uses, ratings and warnings for the Safety Cable?


Straight Mini Plug Advantages

Q: Why is the straight mini plug often times preferable to the RA (Right Angle) version?


Flash Sync Mod vs Hot Shoe to Mini Plug

Q: Why mod the flash with an auxiliary sync jack when the hot shoe adapters are so inexpensive?


Off Camera Cords (OCC) Extension and Splitters

Q: How can I connect up multiple flash units, maintaining eTTL functions when the units are out of site from each other as in a softbox, or behind a screen?

Q: With the Canon Off Camera Shoe Cord, why are there auxiliary sync jacks in both the camera end and the extension end? Why is the camera end jack usually seen on the left, while the extension end jack on the right? How is the attached hot shoe best used?

Q: How can I extend the length of the Off Camera Cord beyond the original coiled cord?




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Q: How many modes of operation for the 580EX II, and why is the PC jack NOT active in all modes?

A: The 580EX II has a MANUAL mode and an AUTO mode. The AUTO mode is often just referred to as the eTTL mode. This is pretty obvious, and this are the two ways the flash will operate in. Now, this flash has a wireless controller system (whcih is separate from the MANUAL or AUTO modes of operation) that operates in the IR (infrared) spectrum which is generally line of sight, or slight bouncing of the rays, just like your television remote control. The PW's operate in the RF (radiofrequency) spectrum, and these waves travel much further, and through many obstacles. This wireless controller can be in one of 3 states of operation: OFF, MASTER, and SLAVE. If you have 3 states of operation of the wireless controller, in each of the 2 modes of operation (MANUAL or AUTO), this will give you 6 separate operating modes. The PC Jack as it is wired from the factory, is NOT active when the flash is in the MANUAL-MASTER mode of operation. The Re-Wire Mod will make this PC jack operational in this specific mode, which is used when the 580EX II is used off camera and connected to a PW (receiver) which is being triggered by a PW (transmitter) in the camera hot shoe. If this is the extent of your setup, then the 580EX II can be set in the MANUAL mode with the wireless component in the OFF position, and all will work fine. If you are wnating this 580EX II flash to act as a MASTER flash to trigger another flash unit which is set as a SLAVE unit, then you see that this 580EX II unit would need to be in the MANUAL-MASTER mode, which turns the wireless controller ON while in the MANUAL mode of operation. Just above (in this paragraph) I said that the PC jack is NOT active as it comes from the factory when the flash is in the MANUAL-MASTER mode...unless the Re-Wire Mod is done.

Once the Re-Wire Mod is done, the PC jack also will operate as an output jack when the flash is in the camera hot shoe. That is, a device like a PW transmitter can be attached to the PC jack (and mounted to the flash head), which will in turn trigger other PW's that are located off camera, while the flash in the hot shoe is firing also.



Q: What is the difference between a "Motor-Drive Cable" and a "Pre-Trigger Cable"?

A: A "Motor-Drive Cable" is a leftover term from the "old days of film". The cable is actually an electrical shutter release, providing a switch closure through an electrical cable to activate the camera shutter. Since there is no film, there is no motor drive to advance the film. The handheld shutter release has a 2 position push button switch which will operate like the camera shutter button: partway press for turn-on, press further for picture. The "Motor Drive Cable" as currently available, is the same as my "Pre-Trigger Cable", but the "Motor Drive Cable" does not have a manual overide switch. It is wired as if the override switch were fixed in the ON position. It is possible for me to make a "Motor Drive Cable" wired as if the override were fixed in the OFF position, but for added flexibility, just add the override switch, to have it both ways.

I usually just refer to my cable as a "Pre-Trigger Cable", in that it sets the pre-trigger action of the camera. That is, if you take a picture by pressing the "trigger", then the "pre-trigger" action will wake up the camera, and freeze the focus (if the focus is linked to the trigger), so the camera is ready the next instant to take the picture. By setting the override switch to ON, this makes the camera believe the shutter button ("trigger") is continuously being pressed halfway down, keeping the camera in a ready state so it will be able to take a picture the instant the second position of the switch is reached. Since the PW (Pocket Wizard) only operates as a single throw switch (momentary ON or OFF only), the override switch acts as the manual second position of the handheld or camera trigger button. This override switch electrically connects or disconnects the autofocus conductor that is used in the digital camera trigger circuit.

The override is especially useful in that when turned OFF, it allows you to change the camera settings, and preview the images without having to unplug the Pre-Trigger cable from the camera. In the ON position, there is no lag time to actually take the picture, so you won't miss that action shot or priceless facial expression.



Q: The override switch on the Pre-Trigger Cable is supposed to "break the circuit", correct? When I have the Pre-Trigger Cable plugged in to the Multimax Pocket Wizard and the other end plugged into the camera, I can fire the remote as expected. But When I "roll" the switch button on the MINI override switch, or turn the TOGGLE switch to OFF, the camera still fires. The switch doesn¹t seem to break the circuit. Am I missing something?


A: The override switch turns ON or OFF the autofocus connection, and keeps the camera awake. You can take a picture with the switch in either position, ON or OFF. When you say, "roll the switch" (in reference to the MINI overrides switch), you do see that when the flat, no ridged colored section is showing, the switch will stop like in a detent. This is the ON position. Turn the switch a bit more, and you will hear a slight click, and then just the ridged section will be showing (make sure to ONLY turn in the direction of the arrows); this is the OFF position. In the OFF position, the camera will focus first, and then take a picture. You can test this by viewing an image that is out of focus, and then activating the Pre-Trigger while in the OFF position, and the camera should focus, and then take the picture. If you do the same thing (view an out of focus image) when the switch is in the ON position, the camera will take an out of focus picture.




Q: When I use the handheld shutter release, the camera doesn't autofocus, but the autofocus on the lens is set to ON?

A: You have to make sure the autofocus is linked to the shutter button, and not custom set to the " * " button that you can press with your thumb.




Q: How do I fire a remote camera using a PW (Pocket Wizard) and still fire off-camera strobes in proper sync?

A: According to the PW (Pocket Wizard) manual, when the remote camera is trying to take a picure and fire a flash, that remote camera has to provide the sync for the flash, not the triggering PW. You can do this if you put a Multimax PW or the new PlusII PW in the remote camera hot shoe, so when the remote camera fires, the hot
shoe mounted PW will act as a transmitter and fire the off camera strobes which are controlled by a PW receiver.

If this hot shoe mounted PW is a regular PW, and it can only act as a transmitter, then you will need another PW acting as a receiver which will be attached to the new Pre-Trigger cable to actually fire the camera. The advantage of the Multimax or the PlusII, is that it can do both in RELAY mode, (in the manual, and very easy
to do), where it receives the signal to fire the camera, then turns into a transmitter and listens for a trigger signal that comes from when the shutter opens and camera issues the sync switch closure, and the hot shoe mounted PW fires a transmit signal to get the off camera flash units to flash.

If you want to have a flash in the hot shoe also and your camera does not have the PC port on the body, then you will need my flash mod to add the auxiliary sync jack to the flash, so it can be fired by the hot shoe, and in turn give you access to the trigger circuit so the PW can be fired either in RELAY mode, or just as the transmitter to fire the other off camera flash units.

Explained again in more detail (step by step):
Equipment: 1 PW transmitter, 1 PW receiver, 1 Multimax (or PlusII)

PlusII is in the hot shoe set in relay mode (have to follow the manual and the example very explicitly, as the channel assignments might make a difference, ie high vs low ranges). Relay mode means it is a receiver first waiting for a transmit signal to come through. Therefore the camera port on the MultiMax (or PlusII) gets connected to the camera through the new Pre-Trigger cable.

When the MultiMax or PlusII (acting as the receiver) receives a signal from a transmitter (the one in your hand), the MultiMax or PlusII will send the signal through the Pre-Trigger cable to fire the camera and take a picture. If it is daylight, you have a nice picture of the family or whatever. If it is dark out, you get the black cats in the dark mine picture (nothing), unless the next step is done also.

If the MultiMax or PlusII was set into relay mode on setup, it will then switch itself to become a transmitter and wait for

a transmit event to occur. Well, it did just occur (the switch over to be a transmitter occurs after it receives a signal, but before the shutter actually opens). The temporary transmitter is only a transmitter for about 1/2 a second, so if the shutter doesn't fire for what ever reason, the MultiMax or PlusII goes back to being a receiver for the next cycle. Since the MultiMax or PlusII is now a transmitter, sitting in the camera hot shoe, if the camera should take a picture, then anything in the hot shoe will fire also, so the temporary transmitter will send a signal when the shutter is wide open. This is the definition of proper flash sync.

Now remember that you have a receiver sitting out there attached to some strobes that is set to the channel of the transmit portion of the PlusII. So the PlusII receives on one channel, and then transmitts back out on the next channel.

I just don't know if the relay function is available with the channels of the old transmitter and receiver.

IF THE RELAY FUNCTION IS NOT AVAILABLE WITH THE CHANNELS OF THE OLD UNITS, THEN YOU WILL NEED TWO PW'S AT THE REMOTE CAMERA LOCATION AS FOLLOWS:
One PW will be a receiver to trigger the camera through the Pre-Trigger cable, on the same channel as the handheld transmitter behind in your hand.
The second PW will be a transmitter in the camera hot shoe, set to the channel (different than the handheld unit) of the receiver that is attached to the off camera flash units. This scenario will require 4 PW total (handheld transmitter, camera receiver -> pre-trigger, camera hot shoe transmitter, off camera flash receiver -> flash units)

Does that make things clearer? You might have to read this along with the page from the manual (it is page 40 of the MultiMax manual)

Good luck, and try it with the channels EXACTLY as in the example in your manual.




Q: What is the safety clip?

A: The Safety clip (currently $5) is placed on the cable near the mini plug and is meant to prevent pullout of the mini plug from the PW (Pocket Wizard) mini jack, and acts as a tether to keep one piece of equipment attached to the another (especially useful in suspended remote setups where everything must be tethered and secured in duplicate), and limits the free range of motion between the two items. I find there is less strain on the wire with the straight plug, especially when people hang the PW from the lanyard, then the wire coming from the RA (Right Angle) plug has to make another ninety degree bend upwards because the PW is hanging down because of gravity! If the PW is mounted on a stand in a shoe, gravity is not in play, and a right angle plug would be fine.




Q: What are the uses, ratings and warnings for the Safety Cable?

A:Safety Cable Warning: 1/16 inch aircraft cable: 50 pounds max load

The safety cables should always be used in pairs for any piece of equipment, each attached to a different part of the same piece of equipment.

These, and all safety cables of this nature, are not meant for supporting live loads, and should not be used for lifting or hoisting, but are strictly meant to secure a piece of equipment should the primary attachment point fail.

Inspection: No product can operate indefinitely at its rated capacity. Wire Rope and Cable must be inspected regularly for any deterioration which may result in the loss of original strength.
User must determine whether further use of the rope would constitute a safety hazard to life or property. Keep out from under any raised loads and keep out of the line of force of any load. AVOID SHOCK LOADS




Q: Why is the straight mini plug often times preferable to the RA (Right Angle) version?

A: I find there is less strain on the wire with the straight plug, especially when people hang the PW (Pocket Wizard) from the lanyard, then the wire coming from the RA (Right Angle) plug has to make another ninety degree bend upwards because the PW is hanging down because of gravity! If the PW is mounted on a stand in a shoe, gravity is not in play, and a right angle plug would be fine. The safety clip is also not usually needed if the PW is stand mounted, unless the setup is being suspended from the rafters or something like that. If you mount the PW in close proximity to the flash, and want the cord to fit snugly between the two, then the RA plug with a custom length cord will be the way to go.




Q: Why mod the flash with an auxiliary sync jack when the hot shoe adapters are so inexpensive?

A: My flash mod is not for everyone, for just this reason. If you are only using the flash in an off camera mode, then when mounted on a stand, you will need some kind of shoe to physically hold the flash unit in the umbrella adapter. There are many different brands of the adapters on the market. I modify two different models for use with a mini plug or other connector as needed. In addition, I usually suggest adding the safety clip before assembly as a way of preventing cable pullout and relieving the strain on the wire.

If you anticipate also using the flash in the hot shoe, and then wanting to connect a PW (Pocket Wizard) or other transmitter, you can connect through the camera PC connection, or through the flash auxiliary sync jack. With many cameras not having the PC connection due to the frequent adjustments the plug needs, and the somewhat unreliable nature of the outmoded connection, the auxiliary sync mod becomes the only alternative. If you are using the flash in a bracket raised up off camera, then having the sync mod either in the extension end of the OffCameraCord or the flash will allow you to have just a single cable connecting to the camera, which means less to get tangled.




Q: How can I connect up multiple flash units, maintaining eTTL functions when the units are out of site from each other as in a softbox, or behind a screen?

A: Here is where you use the modified OffCameraShoeCord (Canon or Nikon). One of the modifcations includes adding a mini DIN connector set that allows the camera end and the extension end to separate from each other. Mini DIN extension cords (M/F) can be placed between the two ends to separate the flash in the extension end to any length. Adding a plain hot shoe and an auxilairy sync jack to the camera end gives you two different places to attach a PW (Pocket Wizard). Putting a dedicated hot shoe on top of the camera end, will allow a flash to be on camera, raised up about 2" from just the cameras hot shoe, and work just as if the OffCameraShoeCord were not there. The advantage with this setup, is that you can now attach the mini DIN extension cord and mount another flash somewhere off camera while maintianing true eTTL (Canon only) functions. Also available now is a mini DIN splitter that will take the feed from the camera end of the OffCameraCord, and send it to as many ends as you want (currently only 2 at once). An extension end of the OffCameraCord can then be placed in 2 locations as you want, and again, full eTTL functions will exist.

The Nikon system is still under testing, and two flash units in iTTL mode will not work correctly at the same time.





Q: With the Canon Off Camera Shoe Cord, why are there auxiliary sync jacks in both the camera end and the extension end? Why is the camera end jack usually seen on the left, while the extension end jack on the right? How is the attached hot shoe best used?

A: The auxiliary sync jack in the camera end is usually on the camera left side, as are most of the rest of the camera ports. A long coiled custom sync cord can be plugged in to the sync jack and the Pocket Wizard (PW) can be placed in a waist pouch or pocket. If the Off Camera Cord camera end also has a hot shoe on top, the PW can be placed in either place.

Most of this is personal preference, and how you want to shoot:

If you use a bracket or frame, you can have the extension end of the Off Camera Cord mounted to the bracket, and then a PW can also be mounted on the bracket, and linked to the extension end of the Off Camera Cord either through a hardwired hot shoe, hardwired mini plug, or through the auxiliary sync jack on the right side of the extension end. In this scenario, only one cord is going back down to the camera, so when the camera is turned from landscape to portrait mode, you won't have a tangle of wires.

If you sometimes hand hold a flash off camera in your left hand, then having the PW attached into the extension end would be cumbersome, so the PW should be connected to the auxiliary sync jack in the camera end as mentioned in the first paragraph. If the attached hot shoe is open, then the extension end of the Off Camera Cord can be "parked" in this hot shoe, and the flash will be centered above the camera, just raised up about 2 inches. Whe you do extend the flash, there will still be only one cord to worry about!





Q: I am using the PW Plus II model, and I can't get the Lens Mounted Trigger, Stick-On Trigger, or the Manual Tripper to fire my remote camera in burst or continuous mode, but only in single shot mode, why?

A: This is because of the auto-transceiver function of the Pocket Wizard Plus II design (and only this model), an attempt by PW to make the relay function of the MultiMax model easier to use. The MultiMax model works correctly in burst mode when a Trigger Switch press is applied to port 1, while in the Plus II model, the port 1 jack auto switches to an "output" immediately after a switch press so the auto-relay function can happen more easily. It is this auto switch to output mode of the port 1 that prevents a continuous firing in burst mode. The solution is to only take one picture at a time, or use a MultiMax for the transmitter!

The following is a quote from Garry Montalbano, of The MAC Group of LPA Design (Pocket Wizard):

"This is a limitation of the Plus II. A button plugged into PORT 1 will not behave like holding down the TEST button. Technical reasons include:

* The PORTS perform different functions based on auto-transceiver operation. PORT 1 cannot be an input and an output at the same time, so when the unit is triggered, it switches to output so auto-relay can happen more gracefully.

* When PORT 1 is used as a camera input for remote flash triggering it is very beneficial for it to be "single shot" so you don't get multiple flashes when using a Hasselblad with mechanical lens contacts, for example.

Solutions to this specific problem include:
* Use the TEST button
* Use a MultiMAX as the Transmitter
* Use a MultiMAX as a Receiver and use a long contact time so that every trigger performs 5 shots, for example."




Q: I have the Bowens Pulsar Transeiver. How can I use it to fire my camera?

A: There are three different input connections on the Pulsar when it is being used as the TRANSMITTER: 1) hot shoe, 2) Sync In (left side- 3.5mm), 3) hot shoe Sync In (left side on foot- 2.5mm)

There are two different output connections for when it is used as the RECEIVER: 1) PC Sync out (on back of unit- PC female), 2) Sync out (right side- 3.5mm). It is this last one, the Sync out, which is where the mini plug from the "Pre-Trigger" cable will connect to. Bowens calls this cable a "Motor drive" cable, which is an older term from the days when cameras has motor drives to advance the film. I tend to call this the "Pre-Trigger" cable since it sets the camera to make it ready to "pull the trigger" and take the picture.

The override switch in the ON position (black stripe showing on the MINI switch) keeps the camera awake and ready to fire. Turn the switch to OFF to change camera settings, and preview a picture on the camera screen. In the OFF position, the autofocus connection point is disconnected from the remote. When the receiver sends a signal to fire the camera, the camera will have to wake up first, and focus (if the autofocus is turned ON, and linked to the camera shutter button). To eliminate this lag time, just turn the override switch back to ON.





Q: How many PW's and how do I set up to trigger 2 off camera Canon EX flash units?

A: There are a couple of ways to do this, and it is also a trick question these days. The first, and most obvious answer is to have one PW on the camera as the transmitter, and one PW on each off camera flash unit as the receiver. Since the Canon units do not have a sync jack, you can EITHER have me put in the Aux Sync Jack and supply the correct sync cord, OR use the Hot Shoe to Mini Plug Adapter as a way of connecting the flash to the PW. Each flash will have to be in manual mode, and is fired by the PW on the camera hot shoe. Adjust each flash power output for best results.

The next way involves using the Canon wireless IR system to communicate from the first off camera flash unit to the next, or to as many other units that can be put into a Manual Slave mode (right now this is the 430EX, 550EX, 580 EX, and the 580 EX II). One PW will again be on the camera as the transmitter, and the 2nd PW will be on a flash unit that can be set into a Manual Master mode (right now this is the 550EX, 580 EX, and the 580EX II).

The problem arrises when the 580EX II is being used as the Master unit to control other Canon EX units (430EX, 550EX, 580EX, 580EX II):

This is described in my 580EX II Re-Wire Mod posting, but there are 6 modes of operation for the 580 EX II: 3 are Manual, and 3 are Auto, or eTTL modes. The 3 modes (Manual or Auto type) are: 1) OFF, 2) Master, and 3) Slave, and this refers stricly to the wireless functions. So, if the 580EX II is hardwired to a PW (receiver) which is triggered by a PW (transmitter) on the camera, if will fire just fine IF it is in any mode but the Manual-Master mode. When this flash is used off camera fired by a PW, eTTL mode is invalid, and doesn't make sense; it has to be in a Manual mode. If you are trying to use this flash to then wirelessly trigger another EX flash unit (430EX, 550EX, or 580EX) via the Canon IR system, you have to turn the wireless system ON, which means going into the Manual-Master mode, and as I said, the PC jack of the 580EX II is NOT ACTIVE in this mode, UNLESS the 580EX II Re-Wire Mod is done! Whew!!

If, on the other hand, you use a 580EX unit as the Master, connected to a PW receiver, then a 580EX II unit can be set into Manual Slave mode, and the Re-Wire mod does not have to be done, since the PC jack of the 580EX II is ACTIVE in this mode, so the mod is not needed. If you only had a 580EX II and a 430EX, but not a 580EX unit, then you would need the Re-Wire mod for the 580EX II unit since the 430EX unit can not act as a Master, and the PC jack of the 580EX II unit is NOT ACTIVE in the Manual-Master mode.

Still have questions, please ask!




Q: How can I extend the length of the Off Camera Cord beyond the original coiled cord?

A: The hardwired extended length OCC (Off Camera Cord) is a regular OCC where the coiled cord is removed entirely, and a fixed length of cable is attached directly into each end (CAMERA end, and EXTENSION, or flash end). The cable is the same cable as the actual extension cords I use (fully shielded and grounded), only I have to cut the ends (the mini DIN connectors, Male & Female) off, so if you start with a 20 foot mini DIN extension cord by the time I cut the ends off, and attach them into the ends of the OCC, you subtract just over one foot to ge the finished length, but you are paying for 20 feet of cable at $2 a foot (the 20 foot extension cord is $38 uncut). The mod to the cord itself (labor) to attach the cable into the OCC ends is $60, so the total for this item starting with a 20 foot cable would be $60 + $40 = $100 when it is done on your OCC that you send me. For me to get a new OCC you would add in $60 for a total of $160.


The alternative is to still remove the coiled cable, and into each end of the OCC attach a short cable that has the mini DIN connector (one would be male, one would be female). Attaching the two connectors together would yield a finished straight length of the OCC of about one foot (could be longer, if desired). The real advantage is that any length or combination of the mini DIN extension cords can be used to extend the length as needed. The shortest extension I have is 6 feet, while the longest in black color is 25 feet. I have 50 and 75 feet in an ivory color as well. To attach the mini DIN on the short cable into each end of the OCC is $80 ("mini DIN connector set"), and then the different length extensions are listed on the site: 6 feet: $30, 10 feet: $33, 15 feet: $35, etc Don't forget to account for the vertical drop from your camera to the floor, and then from the floor back up to the height of the flash unit itself, in addition to the horizontal separation you want between the camera and flash unit. Basically, you want to add 10 feet to however far apart you want the flash and camera to be to prevent tripping over the cable.


The mini DIN connectors are all factory molded plugs and jacks, as it really is very fussy and labor intensive to hand solder the very small mini DIN connectors onto another piece of wire (very prone to failure).



Q: Why does my 580 turn off after 90 seconds when I use it off camera? I have to turn the power off and then back on for a restart.

A: The 580's factory default is to allow the flash to go to sleep to conserve battery power after 90 seconds. When they are on the camera hot shoe, they are told to wake up when you press the shutter in a half press.

To change the setting, it is described starting on page 27 of my manual for the 580, basically, Custom Function #14 is factory default at "0" which is "Auto Power Off Activation", and it needs to be set to "1" to turn OFF the function and allow the flash to stay awake. The previous models all had this set the other way as the default!

Here it is Step by Step:
1) Press the C.Fn button for 2 sec so that C.Fn is displayed.

2)Select Custom Function by turning the main setting dial until F 14 shows in the display. If the numeral 0 is showing to the right of the 14, this indicates the default setting was previously being used.

3)Change the setting by pressing the center set button on the main setting dial. The selected setting will blink. Turn the setting dial so either a "0" or a "1" is displayed, then press the center set button again. (Stay awake: "1", allow to sleep: "0")

4) Finish by pressing the MODE button, and the flash will be ready with the new setting.